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1955 Chevrolet 2 door hardtop project

 

  

I recently acquired this 55. When I drove in with it on a trailer my wife asked “How much did I get to haul it off ". I look at it as a challenge, something to occupy my time in my old age. My son called it my “Flintstone car” because most of the floor pan is rusted away.  I have already started to remedy that by installing a new floor.  It will be a long process and I will post pictures as I go.  If you want to help, volunteers are welcomed.

To the left is the new floor sitting on the chassis and the body is on the lift.  We are about to lift the body and roll the frame with the new floor forward and lower it in place.
Now that the new floor is in place I can start on other rusted out places.  To the right is the "Tail Piece under the read bumper.  I will replace the tail piece, the brace and back portion of the trunk floor.

The right rear quarter had rust at the beginning of the wheel well.  The bottom of the inside fender was rusted away and repaired while it could be easily accessed  It has been fitted and plug welded in place

 

 

 

I plan to replace the full left quarter panel next. It had to be shipped truck freight because of it's size and delivery is scheduled for tomorrow.  I have found Jeggs will match prices and give fast service.
Passenger side sanded and ready for body filler and primer

The new left rear quarter is in place and welded in.

We now have new metal all around except the rear half of the right quarter panel and trunk deck.  The full floor has been replaced save part of the trunk floor.  I am replacing the spare tire well when it arrives, hopefully today along with skins and bottom patch panels for both doors.

Right - With the new quarter panel installed and work on the left quarter as well I have installed the tail lights temporally.  A small bit of body filler may be necessary to insure a perfect fit.

 

 

 

 

Left- The bottom of the passenger side door was rotted away.  I have installed a patch panel from Golden Star to replace it.  The drivers door will also require a new bottom.

Across the bottom of both doors show evidence of metal cancer and I have new skins.  The decision to make is how much of the skin to replace. Should I only cut out the bad metal or replace the entire skin?

 

 

Right Picture is Right quarter panel with primer- next will be blocking

On the left is-

Right quarter panel filled and getting ready for primmer and blocking

 

Right - Frame with Disk Brake Conversion and Coil over adjustable ride shocks.

I am planning to install this 5.3 LS Chevrolet Tahoe engine in the 55 with a Jasper rebuilt 4l60E 4 speed automatic transmission.  The bottom of the engine looks good so I am rebuilding the heads.

Plans are to install a Holley 302-1 Oil pan to clear the steering and to relocate the air conditioning compressor with a S-Drive pulley system from Eddie motors ports. Since this engine came from a Tahoe with the 4L60E I will reuse the harness and wire the car with a Painless or American Auto wire wiring harness.  CPP has a couple of options for headers and we will decide on that later.
The original "Blue Streak Six" was installed on 2 front engine mounts and 2 rear bell housing rear mounts,  More modern engines use side mounts more to the center of the block and cross members the rear of the transmission.  This method will allow, with the use of an adapter plate, the engine to be moved up or back an inch or so to accommodate a range of applications. We dropped the body down to check our fit just to be sure before welding anything permanently in place,  Good news is, a good fit so we will remove it and go on with the work.
My lack of patience makes me a terrible auto body man.  I have had to learn a lot about that on this project. Metal work is painfully slow. For weeks now I have been building coats of fillers and primers and hand sanding them off to fill every tiny crevasse, crack, low spot.  I have learned power tools are not the best to use.  A sanding block is your best friend to keep the surface level over a large area.  Auto painting is 90% prep and 10% spraying.  Some builds like this take 1000 hours or more.

As you can see the car is now in the paint shop and the painter is re-doing much of my labors. He is very particular and that is a good thing. You won't find many dents in the exterior metal, most is new. The original paint color was Glacier Blue and Shoreline Beige and I decided to darken the blue and add a small amount of pearl to the white just to be different.

 

 

If you have followed the project pictures you should have seen this was a discarded rust bucket, most likely a downer car someone used for parts.  Both rocker panels were cut out and most of the floor removed.  The previous owner had tried to replace part of one quarter panel and failed.  It was a real mess.  I bought it only because the hardtops are so hard to find in my area.  Many hours of labor later she is turning out to be a very nice car again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I choose to remove the platform for the bird from the hood and leave it plain.  I don't think the bird added much and I lick the smooth look with it removed.

 

 
By the serial number this car was or gin ally equipped with Chevy's tried and true workhorse, the 235 Blue Flame Six. It saw some minor freshening for '55, but overall was the same staid engine that Chevy buyers had come to depend on for years. Skepticism had many buyers giving the nod toward the in line, and in '55 more six-cylinder cars were produced than V-8 models.  With a 230-cubic-inch in-line six with a mild cam, headers, and the cylinder head work we've described, you could expect to make around 250 to perhaps 260 horsepower. Because the in line six crankshaft is so long, even with 7 main bearings it's probably not a good idea to spin these engines much beyond 6,000 rpm.

 

GM 5.3L V8 Vortec LMF Engine 

The LMF is an engine produced by General Motors for full-size vans and pickup trucks. Displacing 5.3 liters in a V8 configuration, the engine is part of the Vortec (Generation IV Small Block) engine family with 325 ci producing 310 horsepower @5200 rpm.  The upgrades in this engine allow somewhat more

 

 

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Now that the engine is installed I am fitting the front fenders in place uaing all new bolts and hardware.
First drive out of shop and on the street.  New wheels and tires are on.  Next thing to do is install the glass.
Glass and trim installed along with power regulators.  Time to go back to the paint shop for final touch-up and fitting. Then install the hood and grill.